Chef in uniform

In the unique book “the Kremlin. Special kitchen”, prepared by the Federal service of protection (FSO) collected the documents and memories of people who head responsible for “the Kremlin’s table.” The officers of the Special dishes tell sometimes unexpected details work, life and leisure of the Soviet and Russian top officials. for the First time declassified the names of the chefs themselves, each of them without fail has a military rank. One of the authors — the adviser of Director FSO, doctor of historical Sciences Sergey Devyatov. A book can not be found in the free market — it was released in small editions and were sold out overnight. “” offers readers the most interesting excerpts from the memoirs of veterans of the unit.Chef uniforms / kitchen hosted security services

A special kitchen was organized for the first persons of the state, of course, into the twentieth century. For example, the Imperial kitchen was the responsibility of the chief Marshal, who led Himachalis part, were the responsibility of the special services responsible for the safety of the Emperor and members of his family — His Imperial Majesty’s Own guard. Since 1878 was made a chemical study of the part of food. And when traveling royalty in the country and abroad needs, usually carried with them. The price was not because it was about the safety of the first persons of Russia.

When in Moscow settled the Bolshevik government, one of the most serious problems for the inhabitants of the Kremlin is to ensure supply. Its solution in 1920 was established near Moscow state farm “Gorki”. However, the Banquet has long been considered overkill. And only the first half of the 30 years holding various social events in the Moscow Kremlin meetings, official receptions, breakfasts, Lunches and dinners gradually became a permanent practice.

In the 1930-ies, as during the great Patriotic war, part of the menu at events were Caucasian (mostly Georgian) dishes. Especially impressed foreign guests “pepper vodka” — vodka infused with bitter pepper. Even then, for a delicious, healthy, and above all, safe food for the country’s leadership was fully responsible for the security services. Since then happened that all the cooks, waiters and other professionals Particularly the kitchen — people “in uniform”.Rocket from the loaves of bread

The chef, who worked in a Special kitchen from 1956 to 1983 (incidentally, in the rank of warrant officer), Alevtina Georgievna Carina also some time preparing for the family of General Secretary Nikita Khrushchev. She recalls: “Khrushchev Family was large so there was plenty of work. The first get up kids, almost 7 o’clock in the morning, by this time I should already be ready Breakfast. Little Vanya was the diathesis, and he required a special diet. Then he got up the older children. Then went up and Khrushchev himself. For Breakfast he preferred chicken cutlets with mashed potatoes and some pancakes. Also was put on the table and snacks — doctoral sausage, cheese.

Khrushchev loved to eat. Weekends required was baking, everyone especially loved the cake with dried apricots. And once I made pancakes with apples and put them in one big dish for the whole family. But I at that time the local order is not so well known. It turned out that Nikita Sergeyevich pancakes had to be put separately in a small little sheep is such a metal bowl with a lid. In the end all the muffins he ate himself, nobody got nothing”.

In the years kerinou the chef paid much attention to the table decoration at the reception. Often taken to their subjects. For example, if it was a events associated with space exploration, on the table could be a globe, made of Polanica, seas, mountains, cities, painted with edible colors. “When Yuri Gagarin flew into space, I remember, among other things, I made rockets out of loaves of bread. And when launched the icebreaker “Lenin”, invented the song, where was the icebreaker, and the flag of the USSR, and floe, and penguins, and whale — basically, everything was out of oil,” recalls Carina.Pharmacy glass Khrushchev

Contrary to the view of the abundant libations on Soviet techniques, the higher UPS just tried to attach to the glass. In the literal sense.

“Interestingly, for those cases when I expected a great feast, Khrushchev was a special glass, — says Alexey A. Salnikov, chief instructor, worked on a Special kitchen from 1956 to 1993, Colonel. We drove “kit”, that is among the most necessary things. She looked exactly the same as stack from Gus-Khrustalny, which is usually used for receptions. But the bottom and the walls were much thicker. A standard look is achieved by the carved figure. Were in it not 50 grams, and a total of 30. Besides, Nikita is often not over the table, and tried only to take a SIP.

In recent years Khrushchev was to reduce the amount of alcohol at banquets. Once we were in Vladivostok, and Nikita tells me: “Be welcome, see that on the table vodka was not!” I asked the waitress to leave on the tables only wine and vodka to put on additional tables and cover with cloth. Suddenly comes the local party boss, examines the table and sees that the vodka is not there. He attacked the waitresses, and they nod at me: “That young man is said to have removed”. The party leader was to reprimand me: “What are you doing, who are you?” I politely answer: “Please don’t shout. Do you think that if Khrushchev came, he came not to talk, and to drink vodka? Do you think I did? He had no vodka?””Fed delicious — got the sheepskin

During visits to the Soviet Union and foreign guests prefer the local food, even if brought with them favorite foods. When I arrived the American delegation, brought with them the chefs-Filipinos, and large refrigerators. But in the end almost none of them lacked. Some were so grateful to the chefs of the Kremlin for the treats that considered it necessary to give them some gift.

“The representatives of Mongolia gave a sheepskin coat, some piece of suede, two to three meters, camel blanket, leather jacket. The Czechs usually handed Bohemian vases, dinner sets. Bulgarians, as a rule, were given plum brandy and lengths to suit, — says Yuri Ivanovich Ponomarev, the cook, was working on a Special kitchen from 1972 to 1997, senior warrant officer. But the best at the time it was thought to work with the Iranian delegation: there was a big chance to get away from the Shah of Iran gold coin weighing 6 grams with his portrait. For the entire period of my work I am so lucky twice. I was glad that we paid that kind of attention and still remains the memory of these events.”

Once Fidel Castro summoned Ponomarev: “I thought, are now to blame for something. Came, and my translator says: “Yur, don’t worry. You filed a dessert of pears, and with this fruit in their family associated very happy memories.” And he translated to me the words of Fidel Castro, who said that their father, when he returned from trips, always brought him and his brother on the pear. For young Fidel and Raul it was a real treat. These memories have caused Castro warmest feelings, and he was very grateful to me”.”Thought will not survive”

Difficult for the “chefs specials” was travel to Vietnam. Especially when the country lay in ruins after the American invasion. “We saw them preparing some of the dishes… Could easily on the floor to break the ice, and then put it in a pitcher of juice, — says Anatoly Zhukov, waiter, Deputy head of Department, member of Special dishes from 1976 to 2012, Colonel. — So we even just in case took with electric cooker. I had another hard trip, when I traveled with Mikhail Gorbachev in Vietnam. I was sent on a business trip without a cook and without order. Well, that Raisa had given him a processed cheese, milk “Mozhaisk” and even some “long-playing” products.

Came to Vietnam and they have there after the war and complete devastation, they are hungry, barefoot, naked. At the residence of cockroaches, no kitchen. We were there 12 days, I thought I will not survive. Tap water is poured and with the naked eye can see that there is someone moving. Well, in the standby case stainless steel pans. This water was boiled, then defended and again boiled and did so several times. The ants went to tapes, and they had trodden a road. To protect yourself from them, around the table made of stainless steel, we poured vinegar”.

In China one time to ensure the reception had to work… in the bathroom of the hotel. “It was under President Yeltsin, who in travelling abroad could suddenly suggest: “let’s make a move!” Instead of a table, worked on the marble surface, was prepared on a portable gas stove, recalls about the reception for 16 people Gennady Pavlenko. — The Chinese said that our chef can not cope, they jokingly answered, “Not right — shoot”. Came a sumptuous lunch with dishes of Russian cuisine, prepared partly from… Chinese products that are bought there on the spot.”Tea, not bar

“Many leaders in those years were, so to speak, not of the aristocratic kind, so some of the questions gravitated toward simplicity, — says Alexey Salnikov, the chief instructor, member of Special dishes from 1956 to 1993, Colonel. — Khrushchev at lunch, prefer meatless meals, fat eat a little. He liked Ukrainian borsch with donuts. On the hunt he sometimes asked Podgorny to make a rustic soup, which consisted of coarsely chopped potatoes, meat, millet”.

And in General, protected persons were not susceptible to exotic food, I prefer Russian cuisine. Quite picky with food was considered Mikhail Suslov, he had diabetes. And Mikhail Gorbachev was very fond of pastries. Fearing that this will lead to excess weight, his wife Raisa began to require that flour to the table was served. Boris Yeltsin did eat a little, despite the fact that was a large. Loved the fried potatoes with mushrooms and onions.

On the current head of state Vladimir Putin is also known: the food is not fussy, prefers simple food. However, journalists to your kitchen last time he was allowed six years ago. Have Breakfast curd with honey, quail eggs and cocktail beetroot with horseradish. Needless to say, this drink was brewed himself. Over his Desk to answer the same officers of the Special dishes. But their today’s everyday life, for obvious reasons not yet tell.

Tatyana Melikyan